Short answer
To pack a framed print for posting: interleave the face with acid-free tissue, tape a cross over the glazing so a break cannot travel, add a rigid board front and back, fit corner protectors on all four corners, wrap in bubble or foam, then pack into a snug double wall folder (FEFCO 0409) or telescopic box with 25 to 50 mm of void fill on every side so nothing can slide. Rolled prints go face out around a wide-diameter tube with both ends capped.
Framed and glazed work, step by step
- Interleave the face with acid-free tissue or glassine so nothing touches the artwork directly.
- Apply a low-tack cross of tape over glass or acrylic glazing so a break is contained rather than travelling across the surface.
- Add a rigid board front and back, either 2 mm greyboard or a double wall pad, to stop the frame flexing.
- Fit foam or corrugated corner protectors on all four corners. Corners take the hit in transit, and that is where most damage starts.
- Wrap the whole piece in small bubble or 3 mm foam, bubbles facing inward.
- Pack into a fitted 0409 book wrap or a telescopic box with 25 to 50 mm of void fill on every face, so the piece cannot move.
- Seal with the H-method (centre seam plus both edge seams) and mark the outer FRAGILE / GLASS / THIS WAY UP on both large faces.
Rolled prints, posters and unstretched canvas
Roll prints face out around a tube rather than tightly inward, because rolling face in puts the ink surface under compression and can crack it. Use a wider diameter tube than feels necessary (100 mm minimum for anything above A2), interleave with acid-free tissue, cap both ends, and tape the caps rather than relying on friction. Tubes are easy to crush end-on, so a triangular postal tube or a corrugated sleeve around the tube survives conveyor handling better.
Stretched canvases
Never let anything press on the canvas face. Fit corner blocks so the pack contacts the stretcher bars only, add a rigid board across the front held off the surface, and use a box deep enough that the canvas sits clear of both walls. For high-value pieces a double-boxed pack (inner fitted box, outer box with 50 mm of void fill) is the standard the fine art couriers expect.
Choosing board and box style
| Piece | Board grade | Box style |
|---|---|---|
| Unframed print up to A2 | Single wall 125BC | 0409 book wrap or stiff-backed envelope |
| Framed up to 500 mm longest side | Double wall 125BC | 0409 book wrap or 0201 with fitted pads |
| Framed 500 to 1200 mm | Double wall 150BC | Telescopic two-piece box (0320/0325) |
| Framed over 1200 mm or heavy glass | Heavy duty double wall | Bespoke made-to-measure box with internal fitments |
| Rolled work | Spiral-wound tube | Postal tube with taped end caps |
Courier size limits worth knowing
Most UK parcel networks stop at around 1.2 m on the longest side and 2.5 m in length plus girth, and many surcharge or refuse declared glass. Anything longer usually moves on a pallet or with a specialist art carrier. Check your carrier's limits before you design the pack: it is cheaper to change the box than to have a piece refused at depot.
Insurance and declared value
Standard parcel cover almost always excludes glass, ceramics and works of art. If a piece is valuable, either remove the glazing and ship it separately, replace it with acrylic, or use a carrier that will underwrite fine art. Photograph the packed item at each stage, because it is the evidence that settles a claim.
Common mistakes we see
- Bubble wrap straight onto a varnished or oil surface in warm weather, which can mark the finish.
- An oversized box with loose paper, letting the frame slide and hit a corner.
- Glazing shipped untaped, so a small break shatters across the artwork.
- Newspaper or printed void fill against the face, transferring ink.
- Tubes with push-fit caps that pop off on a conveyor.
When you need something bigger
We make large-format and long-length corrugated boxes in-house in Letchworth, up to 2.8 m, so oversized pieces do not need a timber crate. For frames and mirrors specifically, see our picture frame boxes page for sizes, board grades and corner protection. Galleries, framers and print studios we supply typically hold two or three stock sizes plus a bespoke size for their largest recurring format. Send us the dimensions of the work and we will design a box around it and make a sample first.
Frequently asked questions
- How do you pack a framed picture for posting?
- Tissue the face, tape a cross over the glazing, add rigid board front and back, fit corner protectors, wrap in bubble, then pack into a snug double wall book wrap or telescopic box with 25 to 50 mm of void fill on every side and seal with the H-method.
- Should I remove the glass before shipping?
- For valuable pieces, yes. Most couriers exclude glass from their cover. Removing the glazing, or swapping it for acrylic, removes the biggest risk and the biggest insurance gap.
- Which way should I roll a print?
- Face out, around a wide-diameter tube. Rolling face in compresses the printed surface and can crack the ink, especially on heavier giclée papers.
- Can you make boxes for oversized artwork?
- Yes. Our in-house box-making machines cover large-format and long-length boxes up to 2.8 m, with no tooling cost on box-maker sizes.
- Do you supply acid-free materials?
- Yes, acid-free tissue and interleaving alongside corner protection, rigid boards, foam and postal tubes.
- Is a cardboard box strong enough for framed art?
- A correctly specified double wall or heavy duty box with corner protection is, and it is lighter and cheaper to ship than timber while still being kerbside recyclable.
Think your packaging is bigger than it needs to be?
Send us your product dimensions and we’ll come back with a right-sized option. There is no minimum on stock lines, and bespoke corrugated runs can start from as little as one, but we will advise the most cost efficient run rate depending on size and board grade.
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